Shortly before 6 p.m. a line forms around the block outside this brownstone bistro, which doesn’t take reservations. When the doors officially open, customers are quickly seated inside the intimate but charming dining room, or at the smallish but lovely bar. What comes next—intricately made, inventive cocktails and spectacular dishes—explains the place’s popularity. Bar director Gabriel Valladares is among the most talented mixologists in the city, and his drinks are as artful as they are tasty…

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